Through Mowgli’s Eyes: Misty Trails and Wild Whispers

A journey through Bandipur and Mudumalai where the mist whispered, the jungle breathed, and we walked in Mowgli’s footsteps.

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Arpita Bhattacharjee

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Total Trips: 15 | View All Trips

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Post Date : 19 Jul 2025

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This trip brought back the kind of imagination I had while reading The Jungle Book. At night, the jungle came alive with sounds — the splash of an animal by a stream, the chorus of insects, the bark of monkeys, and the distant call of an elephant. Being in the forest after dark was both exciting and humbling.

This was a 2-night, 3-day trip to Bandipur and Mudumalai, with one night spent in Ooty. Our journey began in the morning around 10 o'clock. We stopped for breakfast at The Srisailam Veg restaurant on Mysore Road. The restaurant is beautifully decorated, including a vintage jeep parked outside as a unique decorative element. They offer both self-service and full-service dining areas. While the menu includes Chinese, North Indian, and South Indian options, I found the South Indian breakfast to be the most authentic and delicious.

We had our lunch at Udupi Veg, which is about 17 km from Bandipur National Park. Although the distance was 17 km, the estimated travel time to the safari zone was around half an hour. Since our safari was scheduled to start at 4PM, we took our time and enjoyed a relaxed lunch.

If you want to go for a jeep safari—which includes Gypsys and campers—rather than the van safari, it is recommended to book in advance, either online or through the Karnataka Forest Department’s website. Since it was sudden trip in a long weekend and the area was very crowded, we couldn’t get a jeep safari booking.

The bus/van safari lasts for about 1.5 hours, while the jeep safari offers a longer duration of 2 hours. The bus safari runs from 6:15 AM to 9:30 AM in the morning and from 2:30 PM to 6:30 PM in the evening. The jeep safari operates from 6:30 AM to 10:30 AM in the morning and 2:30 PM to 6:30 PM in the evening.

An experienced and knowledgeable guide accompanies you on the safari, sharing fascinating insights about the national park. With a trained eye on the wilderness, they help you spot animals and rare species of birds that you might otherwise miss.

A 6-seater Gypsy safari costs ₹5,000 for the vehicle, ₹500 for the guide, plus ₹500 per adult and ₹250 per child as entry fees. A 9-seater camper safari costs ₹7,000 for the vehicle, with the same guide and entry charges. The van safari (bus) costs ₹1,050 per adult, including the guide fee, and ₹250 per child.

We reached about 20 minutes before the safari was scheduled to start. Since all the jeep safaris had already been booked online in advance, we opted for the bus safari. While my husband was standing in the queue to purchase the tickets, I noticed a souvenir shop run by the Karnataka government, along with two other nearby shops. The souvenir shop offers T-shirts, jackets, caps, magnets, stickers, and more. We bought a jacket for my son, a cap for my father-in-law, and a sticker for my mother-in-law.

I'm quite addicted to tea—wherever I spot a tea shop, I feel the need to stop for a cup. There was a snack and tea/coffee stall nearby, so I grabbed a quick tea. Just then, our bus arrived, and I had to hurriedly finish my tea and hop on board.

Once we entered the forest, the first thing I noticed was that it wasn’t a dense jungle where sunlight struggles to reach the ground. Instead, it was more open, filled with shrubs and tall grasses. Although there were large trees like teak and rosewood scattered around, the area was primarily shrubland.

Our first wildlife sighting included two species of deer — the Sambar deer and the spotted deer. As we ventured deeper into the forest, we were fortunate to spot two endangered creatures: the Serpent Eagle and the Indian Giant Squirrel.

The most thrilling moment came when our bus stopped near a herd of elephants. Among them was a tiny baby elephant that unexpectedly wandered close to our vehicle. Just then, one of the adult elephants let out a loud warning call and began to charge toward the bus. Reacting quickly, our driver restarted the engine and slowly moved the bus away. Thankfully, the baby elephant turned back, and the agitated adult calmed down.

Along the way, we also spotted wild boars and Indian gaur. After finishing the safari, we began our journey towards Mudumalai, as we had booked a stay at 'Deep Jungle Home', a resort located just beyond the forest. Since we wanted to cross the Mudumalai forest before dusk, we didn’t waste any time setting off.

Once we entered the Mudumalai forest, we noticed a dramatic change in the vegetation and environment. Unlike Bandipur, which had more shrubs and grasses, Mudumalai was full of tall trees and dotted with small hills. Along the way, we saw herds of deer at several spots. Just after crossing the Mudumalai forest border, we reached Molapalli village — our final destination for the day and the location of our stay, Deep Jungle Home Resort.

By the time we reached the resort, it was already dusk. Behind the tree house we had booked, we could see dense forest and a flowing stream, adding to the wilderness feel. The room was spacious with two large cots, but unfortunately, it wasn’t very clean. Everything about the resort, including the room, had a very rustic and raw charm. We got a bit scared when we opened the back balcony beside the stream — the resort was full of langurs. The sound of flowing water added to the jungle atmosphere.

After freshening up, we headed to the dining area — an open-air setup with only a roof overhead. Dinner was served buffet-style by the resort caretakers. The food was quite tasty, though the utensils weren't very clean. The resort had very dim lighting, which added to both the charm and mystery of the place.

After dinner, we returned to the tree house and tried to fall asleep. My husband started snoring soon, and my son also dozed off quickly. But I couldn’t sleep. I kept hearing all kinds of sounds — the calls of monkeys and night birds, and suddenly, the sound of an animal drinking water from the stream, perhaps a deer. The whole night, I couldn’t sleep properly. I was a bit scared, yet deeply fascinated — it felt like seeing the forest through Mowgli’s eyes, experiencing a jungle night just like in The Jungle Book. I had heard that sometimes elephants also make guest appearances at the resort — and I kept wondering if I would be lucky (or unlucky) enough to witness that too.

The second morning began with a mesmerizing view of a fog-filled jungle and a stream flowing just beyond our backside balcony. Our tree house had two rooms with a shared front balcony and separate private balconies at the back. I called my parents, who were staying in the adjacent room, and asked them to come out and enjoy the stunning jungle view. They stepped out, and we spent some time chatting about the resort and our overall jungle experience.

My son also woke up early, and I took him to our balcony to show him the view. Just then, a few monkeys came rushing toward the balcony, and we quickly went back inside the room.

After freshening up, we headed for breakfast. I had planned a visit to Pykara Falls near Ooty that day. Our Jeep safari at Mudumalai was scheduled for 3:30 PM, which left our morning free. Since we didn’t intend to visit Ooty town, I decided to explore the scenic Pykara Waterfalls, which had received excellent reviews. Without wasting any time, we set off for Pykara just after breakfast, keeping in mind that we needed to return in time for the safari.

My husband never got a chance to experience the breathtaking views of the Nilgiris in his life, but I had visited Ooty once when I was just seven years old. I still remember the chill in the air we felt that September and the tea gardens veiled in clouds.

On our way, we stopped at the Eucalyptus forest, where my son began enjoying himself in the children’s play area. Unfortunately, we had to take him out of the park as we were short on time and needed to continue our journey to Pykara Waterfalls.

We soon reached the entrance of the waterfall area and began walking towards the waterfall, which was about 500 meters from the main road. It was a smooth and pleasant walk of around 5–10 minutes. For those who wish to avoid walking or are travelling with senior citizens, battery-operated vehicles are available for ₹20 per person.

After reaching the falls area, we collected our entry tickets by paying ₹10 per person. The visiting hours for the waterfalls are from 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM.

To reach the waterfall itself, you need to descend around 50 steps. As I was walking down, I felt overwhelmed by the breathtaking view of the forest stretching behind the water body, from where the waterfall originates. The falls were wide, though the water seemed relatively shallow during this season.

The tranquility of the picturesque waterfall could calm any restless mind. I sat on the soft grass of a small green hill nearby, taking in the serenity of nature, trying to absorb the peaceful rhythm of the moment.

We bought mineral water and matka soda from a small stall near the parking area before quickly heading out for the Mudumalai jungle safari. It had already taken us almost two hours to reach Pykara Falls from our resort, and it was 1:00 PM by the time we started the next destination of our journey. Since we had to take lunch and reach the Mudumalai safari point before 3:30 PM, we didn’t stop anywhere except at Udupi Home Restaurant in Gudalur for a quick meal.

On the way, we were lucky to spot an endangered Nilgiri langur, a rare and beautiful sight in the wild.

As we neared the safari location, traffic slowed us down, and we began to worry. I tried to call the safari office, but no one answered. We finally reached around 3:40 PM, a bit tense about possibly missing the safari. We finally reached around 3:40 PM. On the way to the safari point, we saw a peacock displaying its tail feathers—a beautiful sight, but as we were anxious about missing the safari ride, we didn’t stop to admire it. Once we showed our ticket at the counter, the jeep arrived, and we felt a huge sense of relief knowing we hadn't missed the opportunity to experience the magnificent jungle of Mudumalai.

The safari timings are from 6:00 AM to 10:00 AM in the morning and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM in the evening. Safaris are conducted in Gypsy, Camper, and Bus vehicles.

My husband and I sat in the open part of the Gypsy, while our child sat inside with my parents. As we entered the jungle, it felt peaceful and quiet. The forest had many tall, old trees, and we could see sunlight coming through the gaps between the branches, creating light and shadow on the ground.

The area is a moist tropical forest, and we saw plenty of Teak and Bamboo trees along the way. The air felt fresh, and the forest was dense and green all around us.

On our way, we saw a wild elephant standing by the roadside. My husband greeted it with folded hands, and to our surprise, the elephant nodded its head in response. It was such an unexpected and memorable moment. During the safari, we also saw spotted deer and a wild boar, but to be honest, we felt a bit disappointed as we didn’t get to see many animals.

Just as we were about to leave the jungle, we caught a sudden glimpse of a sloth bear—a rare sight that lifted our spirits and made the safari feel complete.

After the safari, we returned to Molapalli village and had tea with some snacks. We then decided to head to Ooty the next day and booked a hotel for one night. Before leaving, we purchased several Kerala food items and a bottle of eucalyptus oil for my parents and in-laws. I had heard from a colleague that eucalyptus oil is a great pain reliever, whether it's for headaches or body aches.

Once we got back to the resort, we had an early dinner and went straight to bed, tired from a long and eventful day of travel.

Time came to leave the jungle. Just a day ago, when we first arrived at the resort, we doubted if we could even spend a single night there — it wasn’t exactly the cleanest. But by the next morning, our hearts had changed. We found ourselves wishing we could stay a few more days in that rustic jungle resort.

Before breakfast, we took a walk around the resort — a little farewell tour. My husband got quite attached to a Persian cat that roamed the premises. After a breakfast, it was time to pack up and begin our journey to Ooty.

Our first destination on the third day of the trip was Pykara Lake. It took us around 1 hour and 45 minutes to reach the lake. The lake is formed by the Pykara River and a dam. It was a cloudy day, and just as we reached, a few raindrops began to fall. Despite the drizzle, we hired a boat and got on board with my child — I simply couldn’t resist enjoying a boat ride on that picturesque lake, with lush green pine trees forming a beautiful backdrop. I’ve rarely seen a lake with such a stunning view. The setting looked absolutely magical in the soft, cloudy light. No wonder Bollywood couldn’t miss this spot for romantic film scenes — movies like Saajan, Dil, and Qayamat Se Qayamat Tak were filmed here.

We reached Ooty around 2 PM and headed straight for lunch at Kailash Parbat restaurant. The place was charmingly decorated with artwork and models of iconic Mumbai buildings, landmarks, and famous personalities. It's set inside a small, old house, which added to its cozy charm. I really loved the vibe of the place, and the food was equally impressive — delicious and satisfying.

We then headed to the Ooty Botanical Garden — a place I had visited 34 years ago. I still remember that trip vividly. My grandmother had come along with us, but the garden was so large that she couldn’t walk much. She rested under a tree while I explored the garden with my parents. This time, I returned with my own child, who is now exactly the same age I was during that visit. Back then, I took a photo with my parents near a structure decorated with flowers. This time, I stood in a similar spot, taking a photo with my husband and son. It felt like life had come full circle.

The Botanical Garden was established in 1848. The layout was designed by William Graham McIvor, who took nearly 10 years to complete it. The garden is spread across a vast area and is beautifully maintained by the Tamil Nadu Horticulture Department. It was full of vibrant flowers, neatly trimmed lawns, and a wide variety of trees and plants. We sat on the grass and relaxed for sometime in the cool breeze and peaceful atmosphere. My son was playing with another kid in that grass area.

Later, we visited Ooty Lake, but I was quite disappointed. I had fond memories of standing on the grassy banks with my mother, sipping Frooti and enjoying the peaceful view of the lake. But this time, the atmosphere felt very different. The serenity was gone — the area had turned into more of a bustling marketplace, with shops and a game zone set up inside the lake compound. It no longer had the quiet charm I remembered from my childhood. My son wanted to play on the race car ride, so I waited for him to finish before we left. Honestly, I felt like coming out of that place as soon as possible.

For reference, the Botanical Garden is open from 7:00 AM to 6:30 PM, with an entry fee of ₹30 for adults and ₹15 for children under 10. Ooty Lake is open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, and the entry fee is ₹10 per person.

We checked in to the hotel in the evening, just before dusk. As soon as we entered the room, we felt that we probably could’ve skipped visiting Ooty Lake and instead enjoyed the beautiful view of the surrounding hills from our balcony. The room was not only spotlessly clean but also tastefully decorated with luxurious furniture. We sipped hot tea in the comfort of our room while soaking in the scenic view, then headed out for shopping.

Since visiting Ooty wasn’t part of our original plan, we hadn’t packed any winter clothes. It had started to drizzle, and by nightfall, the temperature had dropped quite a bit. It was a cold night, so we decided to visit the Tibetan Market to shop for warm clothes.

Our first stop was a sweet shop where I bought homemade Ooty milk chocolates for my son, husband, and mother — all of them are chocolate lovers. Then we made our way to the Tibetan Market, which is run by Tibetan families who settled in Ooty around 25 years ago. Today, nearly 70 families live there, preserving and sharing their rich culture through handicrafts and winter wear. Most shops follow a fixed price policy, but if you're buying several items, they might offer a small discount.

We picked up warm clothes for ourselves and a few relatives as well. At one shop, we met an elderly woman everyone fondly called “aunty.” She mentioned that she wasn't formally educated, but I was impressed — and told her so — because she spoke many languages fluently. She was smart, cheerful, and full of stories. We truly enjoyed chatting with her; she made our shopping experience even more memorable.

On our way back to the hotel, we had lunch at A2B (Adyar Ananda Bhavan). After a satisfying meal, we returned to our room and enjoyed a peaceful nap — the cozy bed and the cool weather made it perfect for some much-needed rest.

The next morning, I had a different plan in mind — to have breakfast at a British colonial-style café. As Ooty was developed as a summer retreat for British officials, many cafés here still carry that colonial charm and offer British-style menu items.

We chose Willy's Coffee Pub for breakfast before leaving Ooty. This café holds a special place in the town's history. It was originally founded as Ooty’s first lending-library-style café by Priscilla Tapley Gonsalves, an American-born historian and the mother of Oscar-winning filmmaker Kartiki Gonsalves, who directed The Elephant Whisperers. Today, the café is lovingly run by Mr. Kumar, a warm and humble gentleman who greets every guest with genuine kindness.

When we arrived, we were a bit early — about 30 minutes before opening time. While we were searching for the entrance downstairs, Mr. Kumar noticed us and initially told us the café wasn't open yet. But then, after a brief pause, he smiled and invited us in. The café felt cozy, with bookshelves lining the walls — you could even borrow a book from the collection. The ambience was charming, and the breakfast was simple yet delightful.

On our way out of town, we passed by small roadside stalls selling farm-fresh corn, radish, and carrots. We couldn’t resist stopping at one, and enjoyed freshly roasted corn while standing right in front of the farm — a simple pleasure that added to the day’s joy.

As we continued, we made a spontaneous stop at Wenlock Downs 9th Mile Shooting Point, even though a sudden drizzle had started. Despite the rain, we decided to climb up to the hilltop. The area is open from 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM, and the entry fee is ₹10 per person. The view from the top was absolutely stunning — panoramic Nilgiri Hills on one side, blanketed in pine forests, and rolling green grasslands stretching endlessly on the other. It was the perfect finale to our journey.

From there, we made our way back. Lunch was at Gudalur, followed by tea and snacks at Mysore. Before reaching Bangalore, we had our dinner at Shivalli Restaurant in Channapatna. Finally, we reached home around 10:30 PM, bringing a beautiful trip to a close.

The trip ended, but the mist and the calls of the jungle will always stay with us. We returned with memories that were raw, real, and unforgettable.