Heaven’s call to less known terrains – Meghamalai

Plans for a new trip

After the Vattavada trip, I got confident about my intuition. This trip added one more gem to my crown of attracting good people. A rider soul, Mr. Aananthu Mohan, who knows less-known terrains like the back of his hand and has an entire network of people with similar interests, was my trip mate for this Meghamalai adventure. He missed our previous riding trip because of his official duties but called me up asking if there was any ongoing trip he could join. My answer was, "Why don’t we get the show on the road?" We started planning the route a few days before the trip, and everything fell into place like clockwork. We planned to travel from Alappuzha through the dense forest route of Konni and Achankovil, then continue to Rajapalayam, Theni, Chinnamannur and Meghamalai before finally looping back via the scenic Kuttikanam route to Alappuzha.

Day 1

On 20^th June 2024, my tripmate embarked on our journey from Kochi after having endured several sleepless nights, driven by the urgency to retrieve his Xpulse motorcycle from Wayanad for our trip. He arrived at Alappuzha from Kochi, where the relentless monsoon showers drenched him thoroughly, leaving him soaked head to toe. But this unpredictable weather and challenging terrain ahead, only added to the excitement and camaraderie of our road trip. 

Change of plans

We hit the road with our luggage securely fastened to the XPulse carrier using a bungee cord, by my tripmate and thanks to my clever packing, it felt as comfortable as a couch, with the luggage itself serving as a backrest for me. Lady Luck, in the form of monsoon showers, accompanied us abundantly throughout our journey to Pathanamthitta, where we took a small Twix break. 

After loading up on chocolates, we headed towards the Konni – Njavanal forest check post, passing the massive teak trees on either sides of the road. These towering giants got me thinking that whoever is allowed to cut and sell them would be richer than Ambani. At the Njavanal check post, the forest ranger informed us that the Kalleli bridge, 4.4km ahead, was blocked and only locals were permitted to cross. But it took only a few seconds for us to think on our feet and revise our plans. 

We opted to take the route through Pathanamthitta, Ranni, Kuttikanam to Kumily, and from there, visit Meghamalai from the other side. We decided to cover the entirety of the Achankovil-Konni stretch in our next trip. The journey was so full of serpentine twists and turns, like dancing to a fiddler's tune in the rain, but it was an adventure worth every second.

Even when my tripmate was feeling a bit down for missing the scenic views of the Achankovil forest route, he was a sport to go along with the new plan. We took a break for some tea and ice cream and continued our now "a walk in the park" journey via the Ranni forest route to Kuttikanam, which was also lush with monsoon rain. No pictures could do justice to our experience; the air quality, the forest, and the greenery were all top-notch, and we had no regrets about improvising our original plan. 

We had our lunch at Mundakayam Rambutan Booster Chaya, a clean semi-open restaurant with more non-veg options and a variety of coffees and teas than you could shake a stick at. My tripmate who was less aware of my eating habits, was a bit hesitant about sharing the kizhi biriyani owing to the quantity, but once we started eating, he realized it was the cat's whiskers.

Panchalimedu

After being grateful to Mother Monsoon for being light on us, we headed towards Panchalimedu, which was often a missed detour for all my usual Kuttikanam weekend getaways even when situated in the Peerumedu tehsil of the beautiful Idukki district. The entrance fee was INR 25 per head. 

There is a zipline from the hilltop that we couldn't access due to the heavy rain and wind, making it a no-go zone. While we huddled like sardines inside the zipline counter with five other visitors, my thrill-seeking buddy decided to play weather warrior, soaking up the storm outside. I felt relieved to see him not get blown away like a tumbleweed in a hurricane!

Apart from being a hiking paradise, it holds mythical importance—Pandavas, along with their spouse Panchali, had an incognito sojourn here during their one-year exile, during which they received selfless help from the local tribes. The tribal chief received a Goddess Durga idol as a token of gratitude from the Kuru Princes but later suffered unexpected incidents, leading to the place becoming uninhabited due to their uncivilized rituals. The idol was eventually moved to Valliyamkavu region, yet Panchalimedu still stands as a valid sanctum sanctorum, for Durga Devi. 

At present, there is a small Bhuvaneshwari temple on the side, which can be approached by the same walkway from the main road. It is said that on Makar Sankranti day, usually around the second week of January, Ayyappa devotees camp here to witness the Makaravilakku, or holy flames, from the Shabarimala temple. The place is equally sacred for Christians, as I could see crosses over the hill, and I later learned they visit there during Good Friday. 

The non-religious self of mine was more fascinated by the coexistence and tolerance both religions exhibit toward each other. They say birds of a feather flock together, but here it felt like different feathers were woven into a single, beautiful tapestry. The serene environment made my heart as light as a feather and felt glad to have visited this treasure trove of history and spirituality. We left Panchalimedu with the peace of mind that comes from knowing that in some corners of the world, at least, people live and let live.

St. George CSI Church & British Cemetery

Our next stop was St. George CSI Church & British Cemetery. We came to know that we shared a quirky fascination with cemeteries and mysterious places, and this odd secret only made our bond stronger. 

The St. George CSI Church, built in 1869 by CMS missionary Henry Baker Junior, followed the Anglican traditions of European planters. Even now, the Sunday 8:30 am mass is still reserved exclusively for Europeans. This 155-year-old church sits midst cypress plantations, complete with a 16-acre plot of well-maintained greenery. 

The British cemetery, with its 38 tombs—36 Europeans, 1 Indian priest, and even a mare—felt like stepping into a surreal painting frozen in time. Wandering among the graves, we found some tombs belonged to children, barely 2 months to 1 or 2 years old, which was both poignant and eerie. 

We met some students from the nearby Kuttikanam engineering college there and hit the road toward Kumily, enveloped in lush greenery and navigating buttery smooth roads full of hairpin turns. 

Bamboo creek - our temporary home for next 2 days

Just a few meters away from Kumily town, we settled at Bamboo Creek, a charming property with a few rooms. Thanks to my tripmate's mesmerizing chit-chat, we scored a sweet discount and happily booked two rooms for two nights. After a steaming hot shower and a brief rest in our cozy quarters, we ventured to Kumily town for dinner. 

We devoured chicken biriyani, fried rice, and chicken soup at Godsy Restaurant, savouring every bite. Promising to meet at the lobby next morning, sharp at 7 am to hit nearby viewpoints and then Megamalai, I felt both tired and exhilarated. As I drifted off to sleep, images of Meghamalai danced in my head while my tripmate Anandhu’s conversation with Aunty and Uncle at the lobby slowly faded into the background.

Day 2 

Meghamalai

I woke up early in the morning at 4 am and began checking the routes for the day and weather reports. I sent a message to Anandhu, improvising our route and timing, and thank goodness he was very flexible regarding the time and the routes. We met at the lobby at 6:15 am and headed towards Meghamalai. 

We took the Kollam-Theni highway, passing by penstock pipe viewpoints, small temples powered by solar panels, and a few hairpin turns. Along the way, we witnessed the scenic beauty of coconut palm fields, grape vineyards, paddy fields, and tamarind tree fields. 

The 43 km ride from Bamboo Creek to Chinnamanur was delightful, and we took a tea break for my tripmate at Chinnamanur town before heading to the Meghamalai check post. The check post can be accessed via Chinnamanur and Theni, but the Chinnamanur route is preferred for its scenic beauty, windmills, vineyards, and tamarind plantations on either side of the road. 

At the check post, we gave our vehicle number, name, and entry timing, which took only seconds as there were no other visitors at that time.

We enjoyed the serene 21 km ride to the Meghamalai viewpoint and saw maybe a biker group and hardly one or two vehicles. Thank God this beauty is less known, and we could enjoy our trip people-free.

Meghamalai boasts of 5-6 dams - Highway Dams, Iravangalar Dam, Manalar Dam,  Shanmuganathi Dam, Vaigai Dam and beautiful British colonial style bungalows that exude charm, by woodbriar, which are the only decent yet pricey stays in Meghamalai. 

The nearest town Chinnamanur which is a 40 km journey back to for basic amenities. Nevertheless, the lush greenery, ruins of churches amid tea plantations, and breathtaking views make it all worth the trouble. 

We headed to the last stop, the Meghamalai viewpoint, and walked 1 km uphill to reach a place with a stunning valley view covered in clouds. Entering Meghamalai after the hairpin turns, the temperature noticeably dropped, and it was much cooler at the viewpoint. 

Thanks to Mr. Kartha a charming local, who sells homemade ginger jaggery tea in a flask made by his wife Mariam, we had two rounds of it, which helped keep us warm. 

After enjoying a brief time at the viewpoint, we headed back with immense satisfaction. The impromptu decisions we made led us to the best views, making us feel fortunate to be at the right place at the right time. 

As we descended Megamalai, we noticed a few more cars heading up, and once again, we thanked our lucky stars for bypassing the crowd. 

Waterless waterfall- suruli cumbum

For lunch, we indulged in a delicious Tamil fish meal served on banana leaves at Hotel Karna, located somewhere on the highway near Uthumalpalayam. 

Next, we visited Suruli Waterfall, only to find it dry. Undeterred, we proceeded to a nearby vineyard, where we delighted in sweet grapes right from the plant and bought some for our Aunt and Uncle at Bamboo Creek. 

Ottakathalamedu viewpoint

Our journey then took us to Kumily and the Ottakathalamedu viewpoint after an evening coffee at Aroma Coffee. The viewpoint and non-operational helipad (now tapioca plantation grounds for locals), enveloped in mist, featured a watchtower and a crucifix.

Despite the students partying at the watchtower, the place felt exceedingly surreal and lush.

Unwinding the day with new acquaintances

Afterward, we visited the Chellarkovil Sree Gurunarayana Ashram to meet a Swamiji known to my tripmate, but found the place empty except for beautiful flowers, a passion fruit plant, and a cute little cat that my tripmate petted. 

Concluding our day, we decided to unwind at our resort. We dined at Sora Restaurant, which had limited options but a pleasant ambiance. 

While at the lobby, we met two wandering souls from Bihar entangled in the bustling life of Whitefield, Bangalore. Instantly connecting with Mr. Saurabji and Ms. Sweety ji, we exchanged contacts and promised to plan a trip together. Finally, we hit the bed past midnight, feeling that it had been an incredibly productive day.

Day 3

Pandikuzhi viewpoint & Chellarkovil viewpoint

Our final day of the trip was dedicated to exploring a few view points on the way back. Pandikuzhi viewpoint, a place that promised serenity and stunning vistas was the first on list. 

The journey began with a bit of excitement; our off-road venture caused our Xpulse bike to get stuck momentarily. Thankfully, my tripmate adeptly managed to lift it back onto solid ground, and we continued our ride uphill. 

Upon reaching the top, we were greeted by an empty, tranquil space that offered breathtaking, uninterrupted views. 

We spent some time there, soaking in the beauty and peace before heading to our next destination, the Chellarkovil viewpoint. Here, we didn’t climb the usual tourist sport which was a watchtower but instead ventured further into a bamboo plantation, eventually reaching a stunning valley opening.

The minor drizzles didn't dampen our spirits; instead, they added a mystical charm to the umpteen photos we took. Next, we made our way to Chellarkovil town for a much-needed tea and snack break, fulfilling our breakfast cravings. 

Anjuruli tunnel

Post-refreshment, we journeyed along the Idukki-Kattapana route to the Anjuruli tunnel, an engineering marvel. This 5.5 km long tunnel carries water from the Erattayar Dam to the Idukki Reservoir.

Its name signifies five inverted vessel-like hills visible when the reservoir's water level is low. 

Thankamani

Our adventure continued as we headed to Thankamani and paid a visit to Kalvari Mount. This tourist spot, with an entrance fee of INR 30 per person, offered a seductive view of the Idukki Reservoir stretching to Ayyapankovil on one side and the charming villages of Kamakshy and Mariyapuram on the other. 

We enjoyed black coffee and snacks from a small café before deciding to escape the growing crowd.

Our next stop was the Dam View Resort, where we met Anandhu’s brother and his friends. 

This place presented an awe-inspiring view of the Idukki Arch Dam, nestled amidst lush greenery. 

Socializing with the friendly chaps made the experience even more enriching. As the torrential weather eased into light drizzles, we headed to a nearby town for lunch. The meal, featuring rabbit meat and dam fish fry, was an absolute delight. 

Uppukunnu View Point – An Exclusive View

We headed to the Thodupuzha-Puliyanmala road, winding through lush green forests with hairpin turns that got our adrenaline pumping. After this 30 km stretch through the thick forest, we had no more regrets about missing the Konni-Achankovil route on day one.

We were supposed to go to Uppukunnu viewpoint, but halted 550 meters ahead of the viewpoint at Aruvippara Sree Devi Temple, perched on a hilltop. 

It offered the same magnificent view as Uppukunnu but with zero crowds, making it the best view of our whole trip. 

Special thanks to Akhil, Anandhu’s brother, who suggested this gem of the temple and the forest route.  

Homecoming

From there, we headed to Thodupuzha via the Thodupuzha-Udumbanoor road as suggested by Akhil. 

On the way, we took a quick detour to meet Anandhu’s friend Remya and her gang. We had a short but sweet break munching on rambutan and sipping tea.

By night, we reached Ernakulam, where we devoured dinner at my favorite spot, Cuz Coffee and Café. My tripmate, being a total gem, dropped me home at Alappuzha via the scenic coastal road. By 2 am, we parted ways with a promise to organize our next epic trip soon!

People often mock me and look at me with extreme doubt when I say I'm going on a bike trip with strangers. But I ask them, do I have a choice? As a single child and an Ayurveda doctor, my circle of friends are either doctors or professionals who seldom entertain the idea of bike trips through unknown terrains just for a glimpse of nature. 

For some, it may seem like madness, but for people like me, it is the high when I feel most alive and serene. Though I may not live longer, I know what I want in life: to travel to the unknown. 

Life is either a daring adventure or nothing like Helen Keller said. And I chose travel, my life.