FIRST WILDLIFE EXPERIENCE

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THENMURUGAKANI

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Total Trips: 4 | View All Trips

Post Date : 02 Aug 2021
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It was a typical frigid winter evening with dwindling daylight during late January in 1989 in Upper Nilgiris. Like a satiated, stomachful snake, the Ooty-Upper Bhavani bus, TCB 1298, was slowly yet steadily slithering up the serpentine ghat road. It was my maiden voyage to visit my friend, AE/Upper Bhavani along with another mutual friend.

The tall, lean Krishnan driver’s strong, sinewy hands skillfully shepherded the smoking beast through the steep gradients and narrow hairpin bends along the potholed road towards Korakundah tea estate, the world’s highest altitude as well as India’s first organic tea estate, niched in the Southwest nook of Nilgiris.

Suddenly something on four legs sprang from a pine grove on our left, darted across the road, and disappeared among the dark woods on our right. We both were upon our feet in a jiffy and craned our necks to catch a better glimpse. Alas, it was gone with the wind! It looked like a ‘deer.’ With disappointment writ large over our faces, we started cursing our luck. However, nonchalantly driver Krishnan told us, “Don’t worry, sir. I will show you at least ten more”, which we were, of course, overjoyed to hear though were a little skeptic.

“What was that?” we asked. “Sambhar” came the reply, and with stupendous effort, we suppressed our spontaneous laughter to gentle giggles. Till that time, for us “sambhar” meant only the spicy sidekick of soft idlies. With a knowing smile, Krishnan again ventured in Tamil (கடமான்) which was also quite new to us.

It was quite dark when we arrived at Korakundha and there was not much to see in the dark. The bus crew got down with the mail bag that had earlier been handed over to them at Kundah and delivered it to the tiniest post office I have ever seen. The lone postmaster opened the mail bag, sorted out the mail, and then handed over a sealed packet to the bus crew saying, “here is the Upper Bhavani mail”, which was given to us to be duly handed over to AE, and we were ready to go.

For the last leg of our odessey, we boarded the bus. To our utter amazement, now there were just the four of us inside the bus. Being bitter winter, the bus crew conscientiously closed all the shutter windows and the door. Then, they diligently donned their woolen-wear complete with monkey cap and muffler masking their faces. We looked like a band of bandits heading for a heist, and what a heist it turned out to be! As the bus roared to life, I reminded driver Krishnan of his promise ‘at least ten more.’ We were a bit worried as we could not see anything beyond the reach of our headlights now.

True to his words, barely a few minutes later, Krishnan showed a couple of “sambhars” that were standing hesitantly near the bushes on our right with their eyes gleaming. My very first wildlife sighting! We were ecstatic and thrilled to the core. As we were savoring the scene, slowly another sambhar herd sauntered across the road and joined that couple and then all of them vanished into the thick tea bushes.

It was an ethereal experience beyond expression. I felt like truly being home at last. Being together with our long lost dear and near ones. Even today, a single sambhar sighting is enough to make my trip perfect and complete. As we roared ahead, we found a flock of colorful jungle fowls scurrying out of our way.

Now, driver Krishnan was absolutely in his elements enumerating his exploits with a rapid-fire Rajnikanth accent. We saw scores of hares hurtling across, sambhar herds scampering into the woods, a sounder of wild boars bolting into the bushes, hitherto unseen and unheard birds! It was stupefying, surrealistic, simply out of this world. Then, as we were negotiating a hairpin bend, Krishnan said, “here comes the climax” and braked hard ahead of a huge herd of sambhars swarming around in the midst of the road, which we had to literally swim through, nudging them apart with the bumper. Later I learned that it was located below the Ramiah road junction where there was a check dam, and now it is one of my favorite spotting grounds.

EPILOGUE: Upon arriving at Upper Bhavani, we were a tad disappointed as our AE friend was not there to welcome us himself. A local lad led us to AE’s quarters followed by EB staff awaiting the mail. As we entered a small room lit by an incandescent bulb, our AE friend was rather shocked and surprised to see us, sprang up from his seat, and gave us a profuse welcome. We handed over him the mail packet. While opening it, he gently chided me “You could have at least written me about your arrival.” I was aghast, and about to say, “What! you didn’t get my inland letter?” when I saw ‘my’ inland letter on the top of the now opened mail packet. Thanks to the curious ways of our postal department, I had the rather dubious distinction dispatching and delivering my own inland letter!