Unveiling Gujarat's Heritage
The trip offered a fascinating exploration of history, socio-cultural dynamics, architectural wonders, delicious Gujarati snacks, and a deep appreciation for India's indomitable spirit.
I and my husband planned a short and easy trip with the intention of exploring the history, society, and culture of Gujarat that was least explored by us. We chose Ahmedabad, located in the western Indian state of Gujarat, as our destination.
We began our journey from Bangalore early in the morning. The flight from Bangalore to Ahmedabad took approximately 2 hours. Upon arrival at Ahmedabad airport, we took a cab to the hotel we had booked online. On the first day of our tour, I had planned to visit Adalaj Stepwell near Gandhinagar and the Akshardham temple in Gandhinagar. After freshening up, we quickly had lunch to ensure that we could execute our travel plans for the day. We decided to book a car from the hotel for one and a half days (the latter half of the first day and the second day) for sightseeing.
Our first destination was Adalaj Stepwell, an intricately designed well showcasing Indo-Islamic architecture. This five-story well was constructed to collect rainwater during the monsoon season in the small town of Adalaj. Its construction began in the 15th century under the rule of Rana Veer Singh, the ruler of the territory previously known as Dandai desh. Rana initiated the building of this large and deep well to alleviate the suffering of his kingdom's people during water shortages. Unfortunately, before its completion, his kingdom was attacked by Sultan Mahmud Shah I of the Gujarat Sultanate, and Rana lost his life in the war. To ensure the completion of the well, Rana's widow, Rani Roopba, agreed to marry Sultan Mahmud Shah I but with the condition that he would first finish the construction of the well. Once she achieved her objective of fulfilling her husband's vision, she jumped into the well, ending her life in dedication to her late husband. Sultan Mahmud Shah I, fearing replication of the stepwell, ordered the execution of the six craftsmen involved in its construction. The history of this breathtaking architectural site is inscribed in Sanskrit on the first floor of the stepwell.
Adalaj Stepwell is situated near a vibrant vegetable market, where vendors sell a variety of fresh vegetables, fruits, and flowers at reasonable prices. After marveling at the beauty of the architectural monument, we proceeded towards our final destination of the first day's itinerary, Akshardham. As we entered Gandhinagar, we were captivated by the meticulously planned city. The city is adorned with open green parks and lush plantations along both sides of the roads. Upon arriving at the parking area of the Akshardham temple, we securely stored our mobile phones and cameras in the entrance locker before entering the temple complex.
The Akshardham temple is a grand Hindu temple complex in Gandhinagar, built by the BAPS Swaminarayan Sanstha. The organization has also constructed the Akshardham temples in Delhi and New Jersey. Dedicated to Lord Swaminarayan, this temple stands as a majestic carved stone monument surrounded by a sprawling 23-acre garden.
The temple offers several noteworthy attractions, including exquisitely carved stone architecture, a gold-plated idol of Lord Swaminarayan, a museum showcasing the pictorial history of Swaminarayan, and a paid laser show accompanied by a musical fountain. The laser show is priced at 100/- per adult, 70/- per child (ages 3 to 11), and is free for children below 3 years of age. Please note that cameras and mobile phones are not permitted inside the temple premises. However, you have the option to have your photo taken at the photo booth for a fee of 100/- per photo.
Adalaj Stepwell is open from 8 am to 6 pm, while Akshardham temple operates from 9:30 am to 7:30 pm. The laser show at Akshardham begins at 7:30 pm.
After our visit to the temple, we returned to Ahmedabad. Before heading back to our hotel, we had a craving for delectable Gujarati snacks that truly capture ‘the taste of Gujarat’. Upon expressing our interest to our cab driver, he took us to Kaanha- Gujju Authentic Snacks shop. We enjoyed some snacks there and also purchased some dry snacks to take home.
On the second day of our tour, we started from the old city of Ahmedabad, a walled city founded by Gujarat Sultanate Ahmad Shah I on the eastern bank of the Sabarmati River. This historic city comprises the walls and gates of Bhadra Fort, numerous mosques, traditional houses in gated residential streets, and Jain temples constructed in later periods. It would be immensely gratifying if these centuries-old heritage sites of this World Heritage City could be maintained and preserved to conserve the city's history, arts, and culture.
Our first destination on the second day's itinerary was Jhulta Minara Sidi Bashir Mosque near Kalupur Railway Station. The unique feature of these mystical Jhulta Minar, or swinging minarets, is that when one minaret is shaken, the other minaret starts vibrating, while the connecting arch remains vibration-free. Many architects and design engineers have attempted to understand the physics behind this architectural marvel, yet it remains an unresolved mystery. It is believed that the minarets were dismantled by the British in an attempt to discover the cause of the vibration but were unable to restore them to their original condition, leaving them in a derelict state.
Next, we visited the Rani Rupmati Mosque, which beautifully combines elements of both Islamic and Hindu architecture. This medieval mosque was built by Mahmud Begada, who named it after Rani Rupmati upon marrying her following the death of Qutubuddin. The mosque features intricately carved projecting balcony windows on the side entrances and intricate designs on the pillars. This archaeological site, dating back 600 years, requires maintenance to preserve this small piece of history.
We then proceeded to Sidi Saiyyed ni Jali, one of the most famous mosques in Ahmedabad. The mosque derives its name from the intricately carved lattice stone window on its side, along with a distinctive rear arch. This window has unofficially become a symbol of Ahmedabad and is also the logo of IIM Ahmedabad.
Our next stop was Hutheesing Jain Temple, renowned for its rainwater harvesting structure. This architectural marvel combines elements of the Solanki style, originating from Gujarat and Rajasthan, with traditional haveli architecture. I noticed a similarity between this temple and the 15th-century Jain temple, Ranakpur, in Rajasthan. The outer courtyard of the temple features a manastambha, similar to the Kirti Stambha of Chittor. Construction of this temple was initiated by a wealthy trader, Hutheesing Kesarisinh of Ahmedabad, and completed by his wife after his death.
For lunch, we savored a traditional Gujarati thali at Sasuji Dining Hall. This family restaurant offers a pleasant ambiance and is well-known for its authentic Gujarati thalis. A Gujarati colleague of mine had recommended this restaurant, and it lived up to our expectations, serving unlimited food. The taste was delightful, with a perfect balance of flavors and not excessively oily or spicy.
The last site of our Ahmedabad tour was described by Gandhiji as "This is the right place for our activities to carry on the search for Truth and develop Fearlessness- for on one side, are the iron bolts of the foreigners, and on the other, thunderbolts of Mother Nature".
Sabarmati Ashram, formerly known as Satyagraha Ashram, was founded in 1915 in Kochrab and later relocated to the banks of the Sabarmati River in 1917. The simple kutir (hut) amidst the trees, overlooking the serene Sabarmati River, emanates a sense of tranquility. The purpose of establishing this Ashram was to seek the truth and cultivate a nonviolent community of workers dedicated to securing India's freedom. From 1917 to 1930, Gandhiji resided in this Ashram with his wife, Kasturba Gandhi, conducting his experiments in constructive work, education, and Satyagraha. On 12th March 1930, Gandhiji conducted the Salt Satyagraha or Dandi March from this Ashram and vowed that he would never return to this Ashram unless India gained independence. However, tragically, he could never return to the Ashram as he was assassinated a few months after India's independence.
'Hridaya Kunj' served as Gandhiji's cottage, where visitors can observe his writing desk, a khadi kurta, and some of his letters. Other notable sites within the Ashram include the old guest house 'Nandini,' the open-air prayer ground 'Upasana Mandir,' Acharya Vinoba Bhave's cottage 'Vinoba Kutir,' Maganlal Gandhi's cottage 'Magan Niwas,' and the museum 'Gandhi Sangrahalaya.' On the opposite side of the Ashram, there is a khadi shop where visitors have the opportunity to purchase khadi clothing.
The Ashram was not very crowded, and as I entered the premises, I immediately felt a serene and peaceful atmosphere in the air. It was as if I had stepped back in time, experiencing the dedication and struggles of the freedom fighters who fought for an independent India. We took some time to sit on the riverbank within the Ashram, immersing ourselves in the tranquility and contemplating the true meaning of independence. The Ashram is open for visitors every day from 10 am to 6 pm.
Following our visit to the Ashram, we took a leisurely walk along the Sabarmati River in Sabarmati Riverfront. This expansive walkway spans over 10 kilometers, featuring two levels. The lower level, accessible to the public, runs closer to the water's edge. The river remains filled with water throughout the year from the Narmada Canal. The riverfront offers multiple entry points and various attractions such as gardens, amusement parks, and water sports facilities. Strolling along the serene riverbank, we relished the fresh air and peaceful surroundings. The Riverfront is open from 9 am to 9 pm.
To immerse ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere, we decided to explore the Law Garden Night Market, a shopping paradise for tourists. The market opens from 4 pm to 11 pm and offers a wide variety of ethnic dresses, shoes, bags, and ornaments for ladies and young girls. Bargaining is customary to secure reasonable prices. Additionally, the market is renowned for its street food, offering a diverse range of culinary delights. The ambience was delightful, making it a memorable experience.
Upon returning to our hotel, we enjoyed a satisfying dinner and packed our belongings in preparation for our early morning flight to Bangalore the following day.
As we bid farewell to Ahmedabad, we carry with us cherished memories of its architectural marvels, delightful Gujarati snacks, and a profound appreciation for India's enduring spirit. Our journey through Ahmedabad authentically showcased the rich history, vibrant society, and captivating culture that define this remarkable city in Gujarat.